Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Day 3: The Colosseum

The Colosseum (actually entitled Flavian's Amphitheater) and The Roman Forum:
I can't even begin to believe the incredible architects whose vision built the Colosseum and Nero's Roman Palace.
1000 slaves built the Colosseum in 8 years, just 8 years, by hand, animals and pulley systems. Just beyond amazing. The structures still stand through complex lego type locking systems supported by Iron.
The monolithic columns of Marble, meaning columns created in one piece.

The Winner's Gate
Elevator structures
75, 000 people attended each day. they each had their own gate to enter. The whole Colosseum could empty in an emergency in 10 minutes!
When the Colosseum was opened, it held an 100 days of celebration
5000 animals were killed over the celebration, through mock hunting scenes and through man on beast contests.
500 slaves worked underground each and every day to make the celebrations happened.
Gladiator's status/lives: They did NOT fight to the death as is the common understanding. However, the winner gained status and the loser? Who knows what happened to them. If a Gladiator survived 10  events he was freed and had great status.
Christians were  not fed to lions
The stairs involved in the stadium were well constructed and steep. Each group had its own entry way. The more status you had, the closest to the action. Nose bleed seats were in play then too. All the games were free though to promote how great the current Emperor/leading people were.
Each group had their own entryway to enter the Colosseum, very orderly.
Regarded Emperors were made into gods after they died.

After Rome fell, and new powers took place, Christians took hold. The temples, palaces, etc. were taken over and turned into Churches/ Cathedrals/ Basilicas. The Redemption of "pagan" buildings into "Christian Churches, was a renewal theme.  Here are some pictures:
Walls/seating in the Colosseum

View of the floor of the Colosseum, where the games were held. The floor itself is gone, what you see is the underground chambers. 

Winch for pulley system that raised animals to floor. Animals were captured, mainly from Egypt and Africa and brought to Rome only to be hunted or pitted against each other in the arena. 5000 killed in first 100 days Celebration of opening the Colloseum

another picture of the pulley system

Cages for the animals were in these nitches

The Roman Forum ruins

Winner's Gate




WOW! Today! Rome!

My first reaction to Rome was, Wow! Our taxi driver said that several times, loading our mountain of luggage, working through the traffic, getting us to our hotel. When seeing The Grand Minerve Hotel, our reaction was also WOW! We had no idea what to expect, I had reserved under my Southwest Points hoping for decent. We have a luxurious hotel, at the back of the Pantheon! Literally right here! WOW< WOW< WOW!!! Once again we are in the middle of everything but once you get away from the throngs of tourists, it is all good. Everything in Italy is centered around Piazzas, most of them have a Catholic Church right there. Where we are is no exception. We have our Piazza de Minerva, and a Church. Children are playing all the time here, which gives us a great sense of family and safety. Yet, we are close to everything we are doing. The Vatican is 1.4 miles from us and so we are walking to our 7:55 tour tomorrow morning. Amazingly, there is some kind of big summit here, right here, of all the Prime Ministers of Europe. We were told when we checked in that our transportation is only by foot tomorrow as all roads are blocked!! There are soldiers, police, everywhere!
We had a very nice day. We explored the Panthion, built before Christ, BC ? then remodeled/completed in 107 AD. AMAZING, AMAZING!!!!! It was claimed by the Church and is now the Basillica of Santa Maria and the Martyrs. The famous Artist, Raphael, is buried there! I don't have enough language to describe the magnificence of the Panthion. Did I say it is right outside our hotel? IT IS!!! :):)
Tonight we had dinner at the Maddalena across from the same named church. We sat outside, and it was wonderful. In front of the church we had two string groups playing. The first were two women on violins, the second was a cello, a viola and a violin. Both played Mozart, Beethoven and other classical pieces. Both groups were accomplished musicians who were passionate about their music. It was inspiring. Again, this was only a block and a half from where we were staying. It is hard to describe how every neighborhood, area, is designed around a Piazza (plaza) centered around a church as a landmark. It is the organization. So instead of thinking what street do I need to keep track of, we are thinking what is the Piazza as our landmark. We have to get up early in the morning and be walking by 6:30 to get to the Vatican!! TOMORROW!
Here are some pics from today:
Treve Fountain

Treve Fountain

The Pantheon! And right by our hotel!




























Day 2 in Rome: The Vatican

The Country of Vatican was amazing. Highlights were:
The Sistine Chapel: When we went into the Sistine Chapel we were told not pictures and no talking. This was because it is seen as a sacred place. AND IT WAS! Michelangelo's work that completely captures the Bible from Genesis to the Last Judgement is just stunning, as are all the other art works. We had 20 minutes and it was not enough.
St. Peter's Basillica:  Some of many of the amazing images in the Basilica is St. Peter's statue, The altar where only the Pope performs mass' the fact that this is the largest Basilica and most beautiful of all the Basilicas and Cathedrals in the world. The architecture was meant to inspire and awe the Catholic fellowship and it certainly does.
The Mass While we were on our tour, we saw a procession start. It was the start of a high mass, led by Italian Cardinal Angelo Soldano. We were able to attend the mass! This probably doesn't mean much unless you are Catholic, but the opportunity to attend mass in St. Peter's Basilica with the Cardinal leading the mass, and the choir of Priests and Nuns singing beautiful music brought Rebecca and I both to tears.
St. Peter: St. Peter was one of Jesus's apostles and also the first Bishop of the Church. He was crucified up side down at the site of the now Vatican, its own country. He is buried here and we saw his tomb! Amazing.
St. Andrew and the burials: Along with St. Peter several of the Popes are entombed below the floor of the Basilica.
The 174 AD Bridge!!! Really, built in 174 AD and still supports pedestrian traffic. Rome knew how to build infrastructure.


This is the 'Holy Door" leading into the Basilica. It is only opened every 25 years, in Jubilee years. 

Michelangelo's Pieta

The Pope's Altar, when he leads masses in the Basilica

The Bridge, 174 AD! Angels line the bridge. St. Peter and St. Paul are at the head/start of the bridge


Sunday, March 26, 2017

Final Reflection

Eighteen Days: Two close friends, living in close quarters, experiencing London, Oxford, Paris, Montreux, Florence and Rome! What an adventure this has been. We learned much about multiple cultures, about our own friendship as we navigated through all of the cities and experiences and about ourselves. We also learned how to plan our own trip, what is successful and not so successful. We met incredible people along the way who contributed to our whole experience. This was a very special trip and I'm grateful to Rebecca for inviting me and to both of us and our supportive spouses for making this happen.

People we met along the way: 

London: Margaret! The tour guide for "Free Tours by Foot: London in a Day tour" When we first met her we thought, "She looks like Adele" She actually was from the United States, Vacaville, CA! She came here as a student and graduated from a University in London. She is a manager for Free Tours by Foot. She is passionate about London and knew both her history and present culture. She married a man from India, that marriage was too strong a culture chasm in terms of expectations for both of them to overcome. After a rocky divorce, she found her true self, married her long time partner and is very happy now. She shared with us much about living in London, what it is like for her. We shared information. I invited her to Brookings!:) She was a first encounter with our experience in Europe, welcoming us to this new adventure. 

Oxford: Jos! He was the "go to guy" at the conference. He handled several behind the scenes tasks and also handled all the technology. He also took us out to the two pubs ON THE CAMPUS each night. He was so funny. He taught us the meaning of a Dry Brit's wit. He did NOT want his picture taken and pretty much thought we all spend too much time trying to capture a moment on camera rather than living in the moment. Both Rebecca and I connected with him very personally. He encouraged us each in different ways. He encouraged Rebecca to write books! He encouraged me to write, period. He was such a kind person. 

Oxford: Several of our fellow Professors. Marybeth from Canada. Her birthday is only 5 days apart from mine, she is also adopted. She had our back in the presentations and we had hers; we just were instant friends. She said, "we will always be connected" and meant it. 

Oxford: Wilma! from Racine, Wisconsin. She runs a "wrap-around model" for students in which the community engages in students' education. We connected over NUA! I am going to get her in touch with Yvette for sure, we also instantly bonded. 
Everyone participating in Oxford found a way to validate each other; providing a true authentic experience in which we all acknowledged that we were a little bit in awe of being invited and presenting at Oxford. No matter where anyone was from; we all had that same feeling. 

Paris: There was not one person with whom we made that particular personal connection but there were standout moments: White Stone Moments  (a phrase from Oxford, Lewis Carroll, meaning an outstanding, stand out moment). There was a "sentry" in one of the exhibits in Orsay (Van Gogh). I was trying to take pictures, I thought the flash was off but the flash went off. She approached me to tell me that the flash needed to be off, but then she told us about the special traveling exhibit of impressionist art downstairs because she seemed to feel that she needed to reach out to me for having to correct me. The exhibition was wonderful! 

Montreux: Clemont! HANDS DOWN! Clemont was a waiter in "Le Restaurant 45". Clemont was delighted because we were trying to learn French. He proceeded throughout the meal to teach us different phrases and give us advice about our experience in Montreux. His eyes and his smile lit up our whole experience. He was passionate about all things Montreux. 

Florence: Martina! Our tour guide for Cinque Terre! She was a true "Bad Ass" (sorry, Mom, but that is how she described herself as well). She travels to India all by herself for example. She is a biologist who loves to lead tours through the five villages of Cinque Terre!. She leads a mean pace through the trails, she was knowledgeable, invited us to come stay with her with her husband and three cats:) 
She was funny and warm. She stops traffic with her umbrella, daring those crazy Italian drivers to disobey her as she led us safely across busy crazy streets. She gave us a spectacular tour, all the while worrying about her mother about to undergo surgery. 



Experiences: 
Hotels - Either because of our planning or because we were just lucky, every hotel we stayed in offered us what we needed when we needed it. 
London was a Marriott. We loved that because we were new to this whole experience and it was good to have a hotel with whom we had both had experience. It was comfortable and comforting. PLUS we had free breakfast and happy-hour dinner, of which we took full advantage. 
In Oxford we stayed at the Harris Manchester Dorms. The rooms were lovely and we each had our own room!!! They have these amazing hot water pots that heat water to boiling within a minute! We had to be taught how to turn them on, LOL. One of those clueless American experiences, of which we had several. 
Montreux Fairmont Palace of Montreux was our luxury spot (thanks to Rebecca) but oh my! The service! Margo was the Hotel Manager and she was IN CHARGE! Nothing missed her attention. She was there when we checked in, she was walking through to make sure our meals that we ate in the hotel were beyond our expectations. She oversaw the concierge to make sure we were being taken care of properly. We had asked for a recommendation for a restaurant; we were going to go to a pizzeria we found on Trip Advisor, she said "no, no, no". She directed us to a different restaurant and we had a window seat. 
The people who took care of the rooms were also engaging and warm. We were spoiled and catered to; which was perfect in the middle of our trip. 

La Scaletta in Florence. The STAIRS! and you could get lost! But the hotel was an absolutely authentic experience right in the heart of a wonderful neighborhood close to "Ponte Vecchio" (Old Bridge). I LOVED this neighborhood. There were little local restaurants, no more than 20 tables at most. A little supermarket, wonderful little artisan shops. The Old Bridge had music every day and was our landmark. No matter how far away we were; if we could get to the river and the Old Bridge we were good. 

The Grand Hotel de la Minerve: This hotel was just a God send!! We were staying right behind the Pantheon. This, in and of itself, was great. The thing about Rome is it is all organized around Piazzas. Each Piazza has a large church, a large open area, often a cultural focus (ie:The Pantheon) that all serve as neighborhoods but also landmarks. We quickly found out that all we had to say was which way was the Pantheon and we were pointed home, back to our hotel! The hotel itself was also wonderful, offering a safe haven at the end of each full day. 

Trivia: 
We walked an average of between 15,000 - 20, 000 steps each day. Shoes: I brought a good pair of tennies, one pair of with a dress shoes, my chacos and a pair of boots. 
We gave up trying to research restaurants. They are on every corner. We just went with our gut instincts and tried to choose small places that felt "just right". For the most part, that worked for us. 
We worked hard to use common courtesies/greetings in each country's language that went a long way for having good experiences. 
It is way worth it to get tours lined up before heading to each country; one to two a country. 
Trip Advisor is your best friend and well respected in each country we visited. Every single tour and several hotels/restaurants asked us to review them on Trip Advisor. 
Google Maps only works as well as the operator. We regularly got lost because it was just hard for google maps, plus our interpretations of said directions, to make sense. Much better to use the map each hotel gave us. 
Trains! They are well organized, you do have to navigate said train stations with all of your luggage. PLEASE learn from our mistakes. Pack LIGHT! We had the added challenge of having to bring professional clothes for Oxford trip but still we should have listened to Judy, our facilitator at Oxford. "Put everything out on the bed you want to take then put a third of it away" Dealing with luggage was a challenge, both on the trains, on taxis and getting settled and re-packed in our rooms. Take less, much less. 
Money. ATMs are everywhere and easily used. Take two credit cards, in case one doesn't work due to funky machines. I used one credit card most of the time but we used Euros for incidentals and all trains. 
Electricity: Get country specific adaptors. You don't need anything else, but you do need these. 
INternet: sketchy but available
Phones: Get the 10.00 a day International Pass. You need your phone. Worth it. 
Expenses: Count on a hard 100.00  a day. I bought very few souvenirs, mainly that money went for food, which is not cheap when you are eating out three times a day. 
Language: Really, language is not an issue anywhere. English is readily available, but do learn basic polite interaction language: please, thank you, good morning, good evening, all goes a long way. Ask if person you are addressing speaks English, be polite and appreciative, self-deprecating even. Don't just launch into English.
Airlines: Norwegian was the best! Our flight over and back was comfortable, with professional service, new planes. They said that they adjust the air and the pressure to alleviate jet lag. I think it is true because this is day two home and I feel good!

Sleep. We didn't get any. LOL! Here are some pics
"Opera Singer" at the Pantheon Piazza.

Treve Fountain

Pantheon

Boboli Gardens

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre

Outside restaurant, first night in Florence

Oxford

Oxford


Friday, March 24, 2017

Boboli Gardens

We met up with Rebecca's family today, her uncle, aunt and cousin. Her cousin, Kaitlin, is living here for a semester as an exchange student in fashion merchandizing. She showed us the central market, where you can buy any type of food for your home that you could possibly want, plus varied restaurants and shops. We ate lunch there then wandered over to Boboli Gardens

The gardens are absolutely peaceful and so quiet after the hustle and bustle of the market. Here are some pictures from our visit:









Thursday, March 23, 2017

Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre was a magnificent day and hike! Here is a link to the walkabout tour that we took yesterday: http://www.walkaboutflorence.com/tours/cinque-terre-trek
The hiking wasn't as bad as they describe in terms of strenuous. There were handrails and I never felt in danger. There was a lot of up and down! Our guide was Martina and she was absolutely wonderful and knowledgeable. She used to be a journalist and decided that it wasn't for her; she is  native Florence, Italy. She, and so many others, speak flawless English. Multilingualism is the norm here...

We started off from La Spezia and walked a switchback up, up, and up to get to first stop, Corgnelia.
We ate lunch in Corgnelia at a great terraced restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean. The restaurant's proprietor is 91, Mom! We were serviced a first course of octopus, clams, squid...I tried it and loved it. The second course was pesto pasta. Both delicious, and bread, every day every meal delicious bread. My clothes still fit, we are walking miles every day, especially today! LOL

THEN the big hike between Corgnelia and Vernazza. It was a bit strenuous but the views were stunning!
We took a train between Monteroso and Rio Maggiore. We started our day at 7:30. Got back to Florence at 8:00, GOT LOST for awhile then found out "Old Bridge".
We ate dinner at a restaurant on our same street as our hotel, utterly exhausted. The restaurant was lovely and delicious. Many of the restaurants are very small, seating only maybe 15 to 20 tables. This restaurant was called "il Borghetto" I had a relatively light dinner, minestrone and lemon chicken with salad. They dress all of their salads, you do not order salad dressing. They are usually some version of olive oil and then whatever they add to it. As you can imagine the olive oil is delicious all by itself. Between the gourmet food and the wine, I have been utterly spoiled! The prices in Florence are reasonable, probably because the competition is fierce. A couple of restaurants each block at least. We turned into our hotel, a few doors down, at 10:00 or so. A very full, fabulous, day! Hiking heaven!!!
An example of the trail. LOL! We earned all that pasta and bread! 


Examples of the different villages

Terraced gardening

The VIEW!

The TRAIL



Sunset


Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Navigating Florence, Italy

The first train out of Montreux was easy and uneventful yesterday, we got on the right coach and right train. When we arrived in Milan to transfer to a train to Florence, we hit a slight bump in the travels. NOWHERE on our ticket did it tell us what coach we needed to get on to find our seats 13A and 14A. We saw on the side of first coach, 10-18 so we thought, great that is where our seats are. WELL, we had gotten first class seats due to all of our luggage because the cost was not that much more, unbeknownst to us our coach was clear at the other end of the train. Rebecca has a suitcase like Polly's Thor, I had my two smaller but heavy bags, plus my computer bag. Just as bad as hers but distributed amongst three, where she had her Thor and a smaller bag. It was an adventure getting to the other end of the train, precisely what we were trying to avoid in the first place. We did make it and all was good. We found the taxi station with no hassle and found our way to La Scaletta. I love this hotel. It is authentic and right in the heart of Florence. I just found out "scaletta" means ladder or stairs! There are lots of stairs, LOL, and a rickety old lift that looks like it should be in a warehouse. That said, it is all beautiful! We walk up three flights of broad, grand stairs to get to our hallway. The building is 600 years old! Everyone is really nice here and everyone/everywhere seems to speak English; which is good but also kind of sad as there seems to be Americans everywhere. Americans are definitely catered to here. At first I thought it was going to be really easy to get lost here but there are clear landmarks and we are close to everything. Old Bridge is beautiful and historic, it is also a great gathering point that leads to the Plaza del Vecchio, and Old Bridge

Plaza Del Vecchio



The Uffizi Gallery on the other side of the Arno River.

So, today we did go to the Uffizi Gallery. We spent most of the day in the Uffizi Gallery. We paid for a guided tour and I am so very glad we did. For one, there was a line that would have taken us a couple of hours to get into the Gallery, but more importantly our guide, was very knowledgeable and passionate about the history of the Medicis, the Uffizi Gallery itself and the art houses there. He took us to the highlighted pieces. We say Michelangelo, Leonardo De Vinci, Botticelli, Raphael, and several others. Our guide shared the whole history of the Medici Family coming to power, their long reign, the influence of Florenzo de Medici on the arts, artists and philosophy. Very interesting. This area is just too beautiful for me to do justice from my pictures for sure; that is why I resorted to Google Images. Here, though are some pictures from the Gallery: 
Botticelli
Michelangelo

I'll post others separately but my phone is acting up and I haven't been able to transfer all the pictures to Google plus yet because of poor internet. We had dinner on the Arno river; all the restaurants in Florence are pretty reasonably prices and the wine spectacular. We ate at a restaurant by the river that was lovely. We had artichoke tortellini:) then walked back to our hotel. 
I am happy to report that I know my way around this neighborhood pretty well. There are good landmarks. I went to an actual supermarket tonight to buy grocery items for our breakfasts. It was fun shopping in a local market. I bought some croissants, fruit and local cheeses/meats, milk and water. 
Tomorrow we head to Cinque Terre!